Okay so now our four minutes is up that we've allowed for the pressure time to reduce and crush the bubbles to where they absorb and actually the best way to think about this is this model that really of coca-cola when you see a bottle of coca-cola sitting on the counter you don't see any bubbles in it but you know from experience there's a lot of bubbles.  The bubbles have dissolved because the coca-cola is bottled under pressure and we're essentially doing the same thing in here.  We're using pressure to crush and dissolve the bubbles into liquid to make perfect patterns and we've done that with the silicone as well.  So now I need to put on the lights.  So I'm going to set the timer for three minutes which is standard.  And your object is to pull the parts out where they are not wet on the surface but not overdone.  If you forget about the patterns inside the mold for a long period of time and go to lunch you may damage your mold.  So we want to do three minutes, start, and we want to be very vigilant to keep an eye on that time and unplug the lights as soon as the timer goes off.  

Okay we've completed the light cycle for the Firefly unit.  I'm disconnecting the lights.  I'm going to take off the air pressure ,open the bleeder. Now the pressure is coming out. I won't be able to open it until the pressure is out but in the meantime while I was waiting I made three more molds or filled three more molds and I'm going to be curing those.  So really when we get into production with the Firefly unit we always want to have more molds in the background ready to open the unit, put these in, get them started before remove the parts that we've made in the previous cycle.  If you figure we can use four at a time in about a 10 minute cycle from the opening and the closing of the machine that would give us six complete cycles in an hour which is about twenty-four parts.  You can multiply that times an eight hour day.  Giving room for distraction, at least 150 perfect patterns a day but it's not like wax where we're busy shooting all the time and have to reject because we didn't have complete fills.  So should be out of pressure now.  Taking my filled parts out and filled and cured parts out and I'm going to load it up with a new batch.  

I've only got three this time that's what I needed to make.  I'm going to reset my timer.  I should only need four minutes of pressure and now we're going to go ahead and open our parts.  Open and remove the molds and take out the parts.  Alright now if you remember this white material is our mastering compound and that's to make a perfect copy that could be molded again.  Always when you're opening and taking out the part first remove the base away from the center of the mold.  That will then allow you to flex the mold as much as you want to remove this part.  So now you see I've got a perfect duplication of the photo silver master and again I'll take this and mold it again.  This is the pink material.  This is the one that I prefer for platinum and also for remolding so I can use this very much like the mastering material.  Now occasionally you're going to get a little flash.  It won't leave a mark on the piece but you may want to either brush or blow this off.  And again we're taking it out from underneath and I see now we've got just a little bit of flash that I want to get rid of.  It's not going to leave a mark on the piece.

Now there's a couple tools you can use for cleanup if you need to.  This is called a broaching tool very inexpensive about ten dollars for a complete set.  And we're just going to scrape it doesn't cut anything but it's just going to clean off any sort of flashing.  Air works well, a toothbrush will be fine.  You would never really do this with wax but that will remove any sort of flashing but again we won't have any compromise to the part at all.  There will not be a mark on it will show you a close-up here in a little bit and show you how clean that is without any seam lines.  This is our Revo mold.  The one that was made from a milled wax.  This is a little rope ring that was done from the HTM material.  Now all of these materials have one thing in common that very much like a metal mold or plastic part unlike the inventor they've got absolute perfect memory.  You can twist them around to get out of the mold but they're going to always go back to their original shape and retention.  Now we'd be ready to go directly into casting.  If we want to put this in storage it's going to have essentially an infinite shelf life.  And going back to put my lights on.   I'll run four minutes this time should be fine.  So again infinite shelf life, complete flexibility, and exacting detail.  A one-to-one copy.