Okay we've cut all of our molds now and as you can see I've got my masters that I used in the mold frames intact without any damage.  This one was the HTM from the envision tech material.  This one is the photo silver my favorite from the envision tech machine.  This is a green milled wax from the revo machine and this is a traditional silver master.  Now I'm going to take a moment to point out a difference between these two materials.  For many of you who are using envision tech models, the HTM is the newest of the moldable materials but it's a bit brittle.  It can be polished nicely with 

with sand fine grade sandpapers like the 3M papers but still my favorite is the photo silver.  It's much more durable which means that as I'm cutting the mold I'm more likely to preserve this master to mold again.  So now we're preparing these molds to be filled with the HD compounds and we're going to cure them in the Firefly unit.

Now here's our cut mold and we're going to reuse our glass plates that we use when we made the molds.   I'm simply going to set my mold in between two pieces of glass and I'm going to cover with two rubber bands.   I'm not trying to tightly grip this like I would if I was shooting wax and I want to put the rubber bands in a position where they're not blocking the cavity.  That's the most important thing to remember.  Now I can double the rubber bands or single them but again I want to be able to simply gently hold the mold closed to keep the liquid from escaping.  Now the Firefly unit will accommodate four individual molds at a time.  We're going to stagger them to fit them in the Firefly unit.  All we need to be concerned about is not blocking the cavity either by the rubber bands or from another mold so we'll be putting them in like this.  The times of curing and pressure are going to remain the same regardless of if you've got one mold in or whether you've got all four in the machine.  

Now we've got a larger injector you saw us point that out before.  It's called the Spitfire unit but really these bottles are going to act as an injector and these are the three compounds that are used for the HD product in America.  This material is called the Avatar material that's the newest of the material it runs in a much broader range of weights of patterns.  This is the original pink hi def model media.  I still use this for making duplicate silicone molds or for platinum.  I prefer this one.  And this is the newest this is called master copy.  There's going to be times where I want to make a duplicate let's say for instance I was using an HTM and I broke it when I made the mold. It's very easy for me to make an exact copy with the master copy material that is very hard and if I need to slightly modify polish I can do that then put it in the silicone and mold it again.  The pink material the original HD you can also mold again but it's not quite as hard so I wouldn't be able to do any truing up or polishing.  Alright so this is how difficult it is.  This is the Avatar material.  We can use the squeeze bottle for both vacuuming out the air or injecting the material.  What we want to do is just avoid very large bubbles inside the pattern.  If I want to remove excess I can simply get rid of the air and use it now as a suction device.  Alright you're going to see that I've got some large bubbles in here.  Now that bubble is too big.  General rule of thumb a bubble the size of a BB is something that won't crush out under pressure.  Now I've got a couple of ways I can deal with it when I don't have this completely injected from the squeeze bottle.  I can gently massage the bubble out by squeezing and letting the bubble rise up and out or I can use an age-old tested method which is basically putting it in a spin bag that comes with the kit and twirling it.  It'll force the material in and the bubbles out.  Now you can see I've got some little tiny carbonation size bubbles that are left in this one but this is going to be fine.  If I had missing prong tips I would always want to know that I have just enough in reserve to fill the cavity.  So I generally fill the machine from the back to the front because ambient light can sometimes prematurely cure the material.  All right I'm going to try the white material now the master copy. I want to make a copy of the photo silver ring that I created and made the mold from in case I need to have an extra master on hand.  Now the shrinkage on all of these products is absolutely minimal so I can be assured that when I make the white master copy duplicate it's going to be the same size as the original.  It's a little thinner material now again I've got missing prong tips but I'm not going to worry about those little tiny missing prong tips because under the light under the pressure they're going to fill in on their own.   I'm going to keep it under pressure the whole time.  After its under pressure for three to five minutes. I'll turn the lights on and we'll cure this to a solid.  

All right let's make this little one in pink. I had a silver master that's what created the original mold from this but we'll go to the original pink HD material.  I'm going to leave just enough to let those prongs fill in.  Now it's still liquid it's not like wax we don't have to worry about it being imperfect because it's going to be taken care of while it's under pressure.  And the last one I'm going to fill with the Avatar material.  What we generally want to do is try to in one action get the air in.   I get the air out as we put the material in and some time that's going to require just tipping the mold and allowing it to come out.  You can see the air is escaping through the space between the filling needle and the sprue.  It's going to make our lives a lot easier if we just rotate.  Now I'm a jeweler therefore I'm cheap which means I don't want to waste anything.  So I'm going to draw that little bit extra because I really don't need it and put it right back in the bottle.   I've got a couple little holes bubbles rather and they'll fill in under pressure.  We don't have to worry about that.  So I'm staggered them.  The one thing you have to be concerned with is that they fit within the band of the lights that are inside and as long as the cavity filled with material hits in that cavity we'll get a nice even cure.  So I'm going to close up the Firefly unit and we're going to turn these into solid patterns.  Air pressure on and we're going to set the timer.  Always remember close your bleeder valve.  The gauge is going to indicate what pressure is coming in but it's not going to let you know what's in the tank.  The bleeder valve is going to let you know you've got pressure and that those bubbles are reducing just the way we want them to reduce.  And I'm going to operate at about 30 PSI.  So pressure time now I don't want to cure it until the bubbles have had an opportunity to be done so I'm going to give it about four minutes and that's going to be again pressure time only and then I'm going to put the lights on for about three minutes.  Now I'm going to take a moment to explain something that's occurred.  We've had a little bit of time lapse from the time we started making our quick molds and now our silicone is cured.  So I can peel off that little canary in the coal mine or the canary outside the coal mine and I'm going to be able to do the same thing for my instruments.  I'm going to be able to pull this out and throw it away and one full swoop it's a question of the challenge of how much you want to waste versus how easy it's going to be to clean it up.  I wish there was a way to reuse it but that's not the case.  Same thing true we're going to clean up my my mixing tip so it will be ready to go when we make the molds again.