You can see now that I've released the core and I've released the core to the side of the ring where I've cut.  I'm being careful not to advance too far down the side of the ring without bringing the core in shape.  So what I'm going to do is now continue along the sides and release the core and get the ring first half of the mold flipped over and then release whatever needs to be cut from there.  

Now the beauty of the silicone is that you can stretch it very far before releasing it and you can see here I'm not having to clamp I'm doing this all free hand.  You may have to clamp when you get into a thicker mold like one that would be necessary for a class ring but I have pretty good control on a thin mold.  Alright so now you can see that I've released the center core and I'm going to finish up coming down the sides into the hinge bar.  Now you can see here I've got two triangular areas that are going to also have to be released and I'm going to show you how we're going to deal with that.  Now I don't know if you can see but look how far these triangular sections of the silicone have stretched out.  Now I have a decision as to where I want to release those that's going to make it best for the cleanup of the final casting.  So I think it's going to be safest for me to put these as close to the outside of this ring as possible so I don't have a seam down into the pattern so I'm going to try to cut these very close to the surface of the mold.  Alright so now my triangles have been released. I just have to follow the prongs to the hinge bar and we're done.  

Now I'll remove the hinge bar and save that.  This is always going to stay with your kit.  You're going to reuse this as long as you're using the mold frames.  Now I'm looking carefully there should be nothing that's going to impair me pulling out the pattern from the mold.  Now I still have a couple of little cuts to make.   I want to run through these prongs to the hinge bar if I'm going to wax inject this I need to have a way for the air to get out and this will become a natural vent to the outside.  So now we should be able to make an exact duplication of this with the HD pattern and then we'll compare.  

The pattern inside of this mold is a milled wax.  Now I would kind of like to keep this without destroying it having to cut it again and by stretching the silicone and releasing it carefully I've actually molded this part that was made on the revo machine a couple of times already without doing any damage to it.  So let's see if I can get away with it one more time.  Now let's review what we've done.  We're going to start with these corner cuts.  Again I'm going to keep the point of the exact-o knife right where it's at and I'm going to wiggle it and now I've got a corner that's going to be locked this way and this way.  When I want to check where my knife cut is all I have to do is look at it from the outside and see where the knife's been.  Now as long as I keep my knife very shallow and I'm careful I can glide right down that silicone without ever having to touch the wax.  This trick is also really important for your rapid prototyping parts that you still want to keep as masters and not nick.  

Now as soon as I can I'm going to want to take this out.  Not quite yet.  And I haven't touched it.   I'm going to finish up to the hinge bar trying to go one full swoop and again we save our hinge bar for another day.  So now the way we've cut this to show you again I can't get this mold to come out of registration this way or this way which means my seam line should match perfectly preventing any sort of a seam line showing in the part that we make whether it's in wax or whether it's in HD.  I'll make sure that a little bit of sticky wax is out and now we're ready to fill.