Alright so now that we've waited our time period to where we know that the silicone is set up almost done we're pretty much ready to go ahead and remove the patterns from the Firefly unit and begin to cut the molds.  So to remove it I'm simply going to take the air off, I've already disconnected my lights which means that there's no more heat coming on, and I'm going to use the bleeder valve that's on the top of the lid to let the air come out because we can't open this until we get all the air out.  Now as I promised you there's no air bubbles left in, nothing's been done, no vacuuming has been done and you can see that our our molds are very nice and clear with no air bubbles involved.  I'm going to remove the glass and we're going to start to cut the molds.

Okay so now we're going to start to cut the molds and we got to remove the rubber bands obviously in the glass plates to get started.  Really important that you allow the extra rubber bands on it in case we break the rubber bands get broken during the case of the curing inside the Firefly unit.  Now when they're a little warm it's harder to get the glass plate off.  Be careful it is glass and you don't want to break or cut yourself but usually if you can just start the corner you're going to get the glass plate to come right off.   I'm separating them as best I can.  Be a little careful with the glass you if you start the corner slowly with something like a case-knife, a watchmakers case-knife no real sharp implement you can just start this and peel the glass right off from the mold and that's what we want to do.  

Okay so now we're about to pull the silicone mold out from the mold frame.  It's not very hard at all you're going to see we have a little bit of loose edges.  They can be cut with your knife or they can be cut with a pair of scissors to trim the edges nice and clean.  If you want you can just run your fingernail across the sides of this and that's going to peel up that little rough edge that may be on the edge of the frame.  So now I'm going to pull this out.   I'll do it with the rest of them.  We try to not bend the frame so they will come out no need to bend the frame.  The last piece of glass off of this one with the silver master.  And again if you do this right this is about the only kind of a bubble you're going to see something that's gotten to the top and just to refresh our memories on this we can do the silicone mold making without the need of vacuum as long as we don't have a domed shape ring that would trap bubbles underneath it.

Okay we're ready to start to trim and to cut the molds.  Okay so now we're going to trim the molds and it's probably easier to get yourself a good pair of sharp scissors and just clean off the rough edges of the silicone mold.  Alright I want to take a moment to talk a little bit about the style of cutting with clear silicone or any silicone for that matter.  If we're shooting wax or if we're making HD patterns the cutting style is about the same.  However it is different than what we do with normal vulcanized rubber molds.  First of all the advantage of clear is I can see the pattern inside the mold so I know basically as I take a look I know kind of how I want to cut this mold, I can regroup over a cup of coffee and make my plan of attack for cutting each of these molds.  Now most of us are used to using a traditional scalpel for cutting a mold but it's really not necessary.  In fact it's almost a little too sharp for cutting silicone.  So I prefer to go to basically an exact-o knife, a craft knife and I can make several handles with several blades and modify them for specific tasks that I may employ while cutting the mold.  A couple of rules of thumb always try to cut from the part to the outside and always try to keep your seam line of the mold parallel to the face of the mold.  This will prevent overlapping an inclined plane effect in the mold which may affect a seam line whether wax or whether HD usually not as much of a problem with HD but in wax.  If you clamp it too far together and it's not a parallel cut the seams going to want to overlap.  So again I'm going to try it for the most part to keep all of the ring in one half of the mold and keep the cutting simple.  Don't make complicated curly cues that are removed and put back.  They really don't work well in silicone to make removable parts.  Try to keep everything always attach the mold even if you do have to have a kick-out plug or an insert.  So let's get started with the cutting.