How It Works: Cocktail-Style Stone Setting

Products in How It Works: Cocktail-Style Stone Setting Video

Video Transcript

Today, I'd like to set a martini (cocktail-style) earring. I'm going to be setting a five-millimeter stone in the earring. This stone measures a 5.03 and I want to use a 70-degree Hart bur that's a little smaller than the stone. So the stone is measuring a 5.03. I'm going to take the 70-degree Hart bur and measure and this is measuring about a 4.85, so this is going to be the bur that I'm going to use to cut the seats for the martini (cocktail-style) earrings. This is a martini  (cocktail-style) earring and this is the clamp that I'm going to be putting the martini (cocktail-style) earring in to set. I'm going to be using this clamp. It's going to hold it down, keep it still while the seats and it the little pins inside is going to keep the earring from spinning on me while I cut the seats. Ok so I'm going to go in and I'm going to start cutting my seat halfway down the prong and I want to cut 30-percent depth into the prong. I'm going to check and make sure I cut my seat straight. I'm gonna go to the next prong. I want to make sure all my seats are cut the same height. You don't want to cut one seat higher than the other seat because when you do go to put your stone in and tighten pulling the prongs, your stone is going to sit crooked. I'm going to go back in and cut just a little bit more. Ok, so now I'm ready to set my stone, but first I'm going to have to take the pins out that are holding the the earring in place and this is the reason why: when you go and put your stone into the earring, you're going to see here that your culit is touching the pins. So, I'm going to take the stone out, and I'm going to go ahead and remove the pins. So now I'll be able to put the stone back in. Ok now that I've removed the pins, I've got the stone and the earring and I'm ready to pull in the prongs to tighten stone. So I'm going to take my pliers and I'm going to brace myself here on the support bar and I'm going to take the other part of my pliers and I've got it on the top back of the prong and I'm just going to pull in - just a little bit. I'm going to do this to all three prongs. I'm going to keep going to each prong and pulling it in just a little bit at a time. You don't want to pull one prong in too much more than the other prongs because you're going to end up with a crooked stone. So now I want to check and see if my stone is tight. I'm' going to kind of hold this prong down to keep the earring still. I'm going to pull this prong in just a little bit more. Ok so the stone is set and it's tight. Now what I like to do is just go ahead and prep the prongs. I'm going to take a file, file down this prong, the prongs a little bit and then I'm going to take a cup bur to it and round it out. So another option that you can use is the sanding disc to bring down the height of your prongs. Just want to be careful not to get too close to your stone because the sanding disc will scratch it. So now that I filed my prongs down, I'm ready to move to my cup bur. Using my cup bur to round out the top of the prongs. You want to make sure you use the right size cup bur. You don't want to go too small because you're going to leave a ring around the top of your prongs. So you're going to cup bur for all three prongs the same height. You want to move the cut bur in a small circle on top of the prong. And now the martini (cocktail-style) earring is set.
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