Round Settings

Start by selecting a 90° burr a little smaller than the stone you are setting. (fig. 1) We use a 90° burr because it best matches a diamond crown, girdle, and pavilion. Adjust the prongs until the stone covers at least one-half to two-thirds of each prong (fig. 2). The burr should fit inside the top of the head at the notch (fig. 3). Cut each seat individually and make sure not to overcut (fig. 4). Once the seat is cut, pull back three prongs (two prongs on four-prong settings) just enough to slip the stone into the mounting (fig. 5). Take a pair of chain nose or flat nose pliers and bend the three prongs back up to the girdle. Make sure you brace the opposite prong while you are securing the stone. This will keep the prongs even, and your stone will tighten faster. Once the stone is tacked in the seat, we need to pull the prong tips toward the crown. Hold the pliers vertically and use the opposite prong as a stabilized base (fig. 6). Reverse the position and continue setting the stone. To finish setting, use a pattern similar to tightening the lug nuts on a car tire (fig. 7). This should help keep the stone level with an even dispersion of pressure. After the stone is set and tight, the prong tips should be finished. There is no standard way to shape the prong tip; this is entirely up to the personal preference of the jeweler and the customer.