Installing the Omega Earring Back

Installing the Omega back on an earring is a fairly routine task, if a few simple guidelines are followed, it can be a lesson in futility.

The biggest complaint is the loss of spring tension in the loop portion of the back after it is installed. This is caused by overheating the loop during the soldering operation. This loop is made of an alloy that can be heat treated to produce a spring like tension. If the loop is heated above 650 degrees Fahrenheit during the installation, the spring tension is lost to a degree, varying by length of heating and the maximum temperature achieved.

Loss of tension can be prevented if the back is disassembled before soldering. Clip off one end of the hinge pin where it has been crimped, and remove it. Use caution when clipping, because the wire will be used again later. If it is clipped too short, it cannot be used when reassembling the back. Use a file to flatten the base of the earring post where it attaches to the earring. It is important to get a good fit to produce the strongest solder joint.

Dip the earring and earring post in a powdered boric acid and alcohol solution to protect the metal from oxidation during soldering. Apply some flux to the areas to be soldered and add the solder. Some jewelers prefer to put the solder on the end of the post and others prefer putting the solder on the earring. This is largely a matter of preference. By applying the solder to the end of the post, you can prevent solder from flowing across the back of the earring. Use a soft reducing flame and keep most of the heat on the earring during soldering. The earring is usually the heaviest portion and will require the most heat to flow the solder.

After the pieces are soldered together, pickle them, clean them and polish them. Take the hinge pin and lift it back into the earring post. Line up the end that was cut flush to the side of the earring post, and cut off the other crimped end so that the hinge pin is one-half millimeter longer than the hinge. Remove the hinge pin, put the loop back in place, and insert the hinge pin.

Check the tension on the loop at this time. If there is not enough tension, remove it and spread it slightly with you fingers. This will not make the loop fit closer to the earring. The spacing will have to be adjusted by bending the post toward or away from the earring.

After the tension and spacing are correct, the hinge pin will need to be riveted. With a small riveting hammer and a steel bench block. Use the narrow end of the rivet hammer and lightly tap the end of the hinge pin while the other end is supported on the steel bench block. Tap one end about tem to fifteen times, switch ends and repeat the process. Change the angle when tapping so the end of the hinge pin begins to round and form a mushroom shape. The more often you switch ends, the more even the ends will form.

When the ends are rounded tight to the post, turn the hammer around and use the large end to smooth the rivet. The large face of the rivet hammer should be polished before smoothing the rivet end.

Use a small pumice or silicon rubber wheel to remove any tool marks. Mount a small wheel brush in the flex shaft, and polish the rivet ends with rouge. Since the earring and post were polished prior to assembly, it should not be necessary to polish them again. If it is necessary, use the flex shaft with a small felt buff.

If the spring tension is lost in the loop, it can be tempered by putting the loop in an oven at 650 degrees Fahrenheit for two hours and allowing it to air cool. The loop should be removed from the earring and spread open slightly before it is tempered.