Assembling the Hollow Bangle Bracelet
By Stuller |
August 15, 2007
Insert joint hinge (1) into bangle shell with short flange (2) facing out. The bangle shell has enough springiness to hold the joint in place; clamping and binding wire are not necessary. The joints are wide enough to center easily in the shell.
Hold the bangle shell at a 45°, upright angle on a soldering pad, using tweezers or weights. Flow (easy-flow wire or paste) solder around the joint, so solder fills all openings. Use a .035 drill to clean the hole in hinge (3) (hole is .035). Hold .035 HARD, round wire with pin vise. Shape (file) end of wire. Dip wire into wax to ease entry into hinge. On hinge (1), grind excess metal off of the short flange. File to conform to outer shape of bangle shell. Cutting though the slot on the other side of the bangle will allow the bangle to open.
With the bangle open, facing you, hinge side-up—file it flat and cut slot (9) with a separating disc on the LEFT end of the shell. The slot must be wide and long enough for the pusher (7) on snap (4) to enter the slot easily. Clean black coating off outer wall of male plate (6) with a fine emery wheel. Insert snap assembly (4) into the shell. The female and male plates are combined, like the joint, and have a protective coating in between to prevent the parts from soldering together.
Push parts of shell together. Center the snap and solder using same procedure used with the above joint. Remove excess metal from the joints large flange both inside and outside of shell, as well as the inside of the snap. Use scissors for cutting, a file for the outside of the shell, and a small grinding wheel on the inside of the shell.
Cut end of pusher (7) to desired length. Take a flat wire with a half hard temper .020 thick (24 gauge) x .070 wide x 1.375 to 1.5 long (10). Anneal one end and make short 90° bend. Before inserting into slot (12), round the corners to keep the piece from scraping the inside of the shell (11) when sliding. File flat (13) the end of the tongue (8) .070 wide, and solder the flat wire (10) to the end of the tongue. Use a small amount of solder and low heat to avoid weakening the spring of the tongue. Your bangle is ready for polishing and/or engraving.