Use this guide to learn the step-by-step process of safely retipping prongs with a torch.
Retipping prongs is an essential skill for jewelers to master, ensuring that stones stay secure and protected in their settings. While the process requires precision and care, using a torch for retipping can be highly effective when done correctly. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the steps, tools, and techniques to confidently retip prongs.
What Causes a Prong to Break
Prongs can break for a variety of reasons, including everyday wear and tear. Rings that are worn daily can easily be bumped, smacked, caught, and even cracked, especially if the wearer works with their hands. These impacts will cause the prong to wear away over time or break off completely. Prongs can also wear away due to stress corrosion, which can happen when chemicals work their way in between grain boundaries and separates. Let’s take a look into what steps should be taken if and when a prong breaks.
Step-by-Step Guide to Retipping Prongs
There are two ways to retip a broken prong — either by using Redi-Prongs® or by using solder. Both techniques are efficient for retipping prongs, so it depends on what you are more comfortable with or how much time you have. Watch the video below for a visual guide as you follow along this step-by-step guide to retipping prongs.
Repair with Redi-Prongs®
- Make sure the colored dot on the Redi-Prong is facing up.
- Coat the piece in a boric and alcohol solution to prevent fire scaling.
- Heat the piece using the torch and place a dot of flux on the broken prong.
- Add the Redi-Prong — always make sure the colored dot is facing up.
- Gently heat up the Redi-Prong using the torch while watching for the solder to flow.
- Once the solder flows and the piece has cooled down, use tweezers to place the piece in a pickle pot to remove the fire coating.
- Remove the piece, rinse it off, and remove any excess metal using abrasive wheels and polish.
Repair With Stock and Solder
- Dip the piece in a boric and alcohol solution to prevent fire scaling.
- Take two or more solder chips — depending on the diameter of the prong — and heat them with a torch to form a solder ball.
- Add a dot of flux, the easy solder ball, and a piece of stock to the broken prong.
- Heat the solder ball and watch closely for when the solder flows.
- Once the solder flows and the piece has cooled down, take the piece and place it in a pickle pot to wash off the fire coating.
- Remove the piece, rinse it off, and remove any excess metal using abrasive wheels and polish.
Retipping With a Stone
In some cases, you may experience a broken prong on a piece with the stone still set. For jewelers with less experience, it is best to remove the stone before fixing the prong. If you do choose to fix the prong with the stone still set, make sure you follow these two tips:
- Check what type of stone is set. If it is a Diamond, Ruby, or Sapphire, it should be able to take heat when repairing but still use caution. Make sure the piece is coated in a heat protector such as Kool Jool® which would be packed around the stone.
- If soldering with platinum, do not leave the stone set. The amount of heat needed to solder platinum will burn any stone, no matter how much heat it can handle.
Elevating Your Prong Retipping Skills
While retipping can be a quick and easy process, it’s important to keep these tips top of mind. Pay attention to the thickness of the prongs, the amount of heat applied, and the type of metal you’re working with. Ensuring a proper fit and secure attachment will safeguard the gemstone and maintain the piece’s overall aesthetic. By mastering these techniques and following best practices, you can confidently provide high-quality repairs that maintain the integrity and beauty of the jewelry you work on.