A jeweler’s guide to making the choice between white gold and platinum.
Choosing the right metal for a jewelry design can make all the difference in the final piece. For jewelers, understanding the nuances of white gold and platinum is essential — not just for creating stunning designs but also for advising clients with confidence. Both metals are cherished for their elegance and versatility, but they each bring unique qualities to the bench.
White Gold
Specifications
White gold is an alloy of yellow gold that gains its color and properties through the addition of metals, such as copper, nickel, and zinc. This combination alters the metal’s appearance and enhances its strength, making it a popular choice for jewelry. Typically, white gold is cast at a temperature of approximately 1700°F. The resulting alloy has a silver-beige hue, which is often enhanced with rhodium plating to achieve a bright, reflective finish. The ratio of metals in the alloy can influence its color and other characteristics. For example, increasing the amount of nickel not only gives the metal a whiter appearance but also affects its overall hardness.
Durability
While white gold is loved for its beauty, its durability comes with certain limitations. Like yellow gold, white gold is prone to stress corrosion, denting, and scratching. These vulnerabilities mean that white gold jewelry, especially rings, often require periodic maintenance, such as retipping prongs or polishing out scratches.
Workability
White gold is an alloy that’s easy to work with. Its relatively low melt temperature and malleability make it easier to manipulate into designs. Despite its softness, white gold is quite robust when holding its shape during setting or engraving. However, jewelers should consider the alloy’s composition, as higher nickel content can make the metal slightly more challenging to work with while simultaneously enhancing its durability.
Platinum
Specifications
Platinum is often cast in these three main alloys: platinum ruthenium, platinum iridium, and platinum cobalt. While platinum alloys were historically much more expensive than white gold, advancements in sourcing and production have made them more accessible, closing the cost gap between these metals. Among the alloys, platinum ruthenium is the most commonly used due to its balance of strength and workability. Platinum’s natural color is a cooler, grayish hue compared to white gold, giving it a distinct and timeless appearance.
Durability
Platinum is celebrated for its remarkable durability. Unlike white gold, it doesn’t experience stress corrosion, which means it remains structurally sound even under significant pressure. While platinum is prone to scratching, these scratches don’t remove metal. Instead, they displace it, maintaining the metal’s weight over time.
This characteristic contributes to its longevity, particularly in settings such as prongs. Platinum prongs tend to last longer and require less frequent maintenance compared to their white gold counterparts, making it a reliable choice for holding valuable gemstones securely.
Workability
Working with platinum presents unique challenges and rewards for jewelers. Its high melting point—3,500°F— makes it difficult to cast, requiring specialized equipment and expertise. However, once crafted, platinum pieces offer a significant advantage — there’s no need to worry about solder points failing, as the metal’s inherent strength ensures lasting durability.
Platinum is excellent for setting stones thanks to its ability to hold them securely without risk of bending or breaking. However, polishing platinum requires considerable effort. Its density and resistance to wear demand extensive preparation and skill to achieve the desired finish.
Jeweler’s Preference
When it comes to choosing between white gold and platinum, jewelers’ preferences often depend on the specific project and client needs. White gold is favored for its popularity, versatility, and ease of workability. Platinum, on the other hand, is prized for its durability and hypoallergenic properties. Ultimately, the decision hinges on factors like budget, design complexity, and the level of wear the piece is expected to endure.
Supporting Your Craft with Quality Metals
No matter which metal you choose for your designs, Stuller is here to provide you with the highest quality options in both white gold and platinum. With our extensive selection and trusted expertise, we’re dedicated to supporting jewelers in creating exceptional pieces for every style and occasion.