Types of Pearls

Today, fine pearls have been democratized, with modern culturing operations putting a range of gorgeous specimens within our reach. From the soft radiance of South Sea cultured pearls to the vintage elegance of a cultured seed pearl cluster, the major cultured pearl types are well represented in the following descriptions.

South Sea Cultured Pearls

The legendary allure of South Sea pearls comes from their transparent luster and unique play of colors, or “orient,” that imparts a luminescent beauty. These qualities define the finest nacre and make South Sea Pearls the most valuable of all pearls.

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Color overtones range from white pink and silver pink to dark gold. Australian pearls can throw fancy colors including red gold — extremely rare and highly regarded. Most South Sea cultured pearls range from 10.0 to 15.0 mm taking two years to grow. Larger pearls up to 20mm take four to six years of growth. Australia protects its wild oyster stocks by strictly enforcing production quotas.

Tahitian Cultured Pearls

Tahitian pearls are often called "Black Pearls" and come in an opalescent black hue, shimmering with peacock green, gray and purple overtones.

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Tahitian pearl colors range from gray to black with pure black extremely rare and very valuable. Consistent color tone makes pearls highly desirable with peacock tones demanding the highest prices. Tahitian pearls are harvested between 8.0 mm to 14.0 mm. Sizes up to 20.0 mm occur rarely and are highly prized.

Akoya Cultured Pearls

Akoya pearls are the classic and best-known variety of all cultured pearls, and are what people typically imagine when thinking of a pearl.

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When you think of a simple pearl necklace for a bride or to accent that little black dress, the Akoya pearl sets the standard as the premier choice. Best-known of the cultured pearls, their roundness, nacre depth, and consistent luster have positioned them as the preferred choice for a timeless statement of good taste. Akoya colors range from white and white with pink undertones. The P. fucata or Akoya oyster is the smallest pearl producing oyster in the world, yet each produces four or five 4.0mm to 9.0mm pearls.

Mabé Cultured Pearls

Formed on the inside of the shell, rather than the inside of the body of the oyster, these pearls are often referred to as cultured half pearls.

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Mabé cultured pearls grow in saltwater mussels and some oysters, forming on the inside of the shell, rather than in the mussel’s tissue. Also called blister pearls, their size is determined by the size of the implant. Mabé cultured pearls are harvested between 9.0 mm to 15.0 mm. The most desirable colors are white with pink undertones, with increasing interest in darker colors has emerged.

Freshwater Cultured Pearls

Supply for Freshwater pearls is plentiful, as each shell can produce up to 100 pearls simultaneously. Consequently the price of freshwater pearls varies and is generally lower than other cultured pearls.

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In their natural state, freshwater pearls are not marketable for jewelry and require enhancements. After cleaning and sorting, they are pretreated in a warm and cold chemical solution. Unless they have a strong color, they are bleached. At this point some are dyed to provide the dazzling rainbow colors that inspire fashion jewelry. Though only 5cm to 6cm long, each triangular-shaped Hyriopsis cuminigii receives 12 to 16 grafts of mantle tissue rather than a round nucleus. The tissue is placed directly into a mussel’s mantle to initiate nacre production and the shell produces an amazing up to 40 pearls. These pearls range in size from 4.0mm to 10.0mm, but larger ones are less likely.

Cultured Seed Pearls

Formed by the early, accidental dislocation of a cultured pearl, seed pearls are just that — seeds of cultured pearls that never fully form. But that is the key to their beauty and their special purpose.

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Cultured seed pearls are the melee diamonds of the pearl universe — meant to enhance, to ornament, and to mesmerize. When clustered together to frame a sapphire, or laced liberally through the floral lines of a vintage-style brooch, cultured seed pearls add a regal, stately charm to any piece of jewelry they adorn. These pearls range in size from 1.0mm to 3.5mm

Comparison Chart

Here is a comparison of some of those options:

PEARL	ORIGIN	CHARACTERISTICS	SIZE RANGE	COLOR	BEST FOR
South Sea	Australia	Transparent luster and unique play of colors, or "orient" that imparts a luminescent beauty	10mm up to 17mm	From white pink and silver pink to dark gold	Strands or statement pieces
Tahitian	French Polynesia	Opalescent black hue shimmers with peacock green, gray, and purple overtones	8mm to 14mm	From gray to black with pure black rare	Edgy look for strands or bigger pieces
Akoya	Japan	Their roundness, nacre depth, and consistent luster make them the preferred choice for classic pearls	4mm to 9mm	White and white with pink undertones	Strands or statement pieces
Mabé	Japan	Designed to be domed hemispheres with almost flat back	9mm to 15mm	Most desirable are white with pink undertones, increasing interest in darker colors has emerged	Brooches or pendants that will sit flat
Freshwater	Shanghai	Irregular in shape and color, uniquely durable nacre	4-4.5mm to 9.5mm to 10mm	Comes in a variety of colors	Normally paired with sterling silver in strands or jewelry
Cultured Seed	Worldwide	Seeds of cultured pearls that never fully form	1mm to 3.5mm		Accents in place of melee diamonds