Follow this guide to learn the step-by-step process of re-shanking a ring using a CLIQ® hinged adjustable shank.
Replacing a ring shank — due to wear and tear over time or to simply upgrade a ring for enhanced comfort and durability — is a common request from customers, making it a crucial skill for jewelers of all experience levels to have in their wheelhouse.
In this step-by-step tutorial, we’ll guide you through the process of re-shanking a ring with a CLIQ® Hinged Adjustable Shank — a shank that opens and closes around the base of the finger to provide a snug fit that’s tailored to the wearer.
Follow along with the video below for precise techniques for installing the CLIQ adjustable shank seamlessly, ensuring clarity at every stage.
A Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1: Measure Ring and CLIQ Hinged Adjustable Shank
Begin by establishing the orientation of the ring. Identify the top and bottom, using a graph to plot degrees and determine your cut lines. With 12 o’clock as your reference point, mark positions at roughly 3 and 9 o’clock on the ring and the CLIQ hinged adjustable shank. Ensure consistency in cuts by verifying the alignment and angle on each side. Once mapped out, double-check your measurements to confirm accuracy.
Step 2: Make Cuts to Ring and Shank
Proceed to saw the ring at the designated angles, treating every cut as if it’s at 6 o’clock for consistent alignment. Find a comfortable position to hold the ring, which may vary depending on your grip. Re-evaluate the angles to ensure they align correctly. By cutting the shank at the same spots using the graph, you’ll achieve a precise cut.
Step 3: File Down Cuts
Use files to fine-tune the cuts until the ring and the shank fit snugly, minimizing the need for excess solder. Adjust the curvature using half-round nylon pliers for a precise fit. Align the inside edges carefully, as this determines the ring size. Minimal prep and cleanup are needed on the interior to keep material removal to a minimum.
Step 4: Use a Laser Welder
Using a laser welder, tack the CLIQ shank in place before soldering. Make any necessary final adjustments, ensuring everything aligns flush on the inside. (We recommend using the Orotig Evo X Laser Welder.)
Step 5: Solder Prep and Process
Flow solder carefully, avoiding the CLIQ shank hinges to maintain flexibility. Focus the heat below, away from mechanical components, to protect functionality. Apply a boric acid and alcohol mixture to protect the metal from oxidation. The alcohol burns off leaving a protective acid layer. Use flux at the joints to assist the solder’s flow while keeping heat away from the hinges. Verify the hinges’ functionality and reshape the ring gently. If there are any concerns about the ring size, adjustments could be made by either removing metal for a larger ring size or adding metal to one of the existing solder joints for a smaller ring size.
Step 6: Blend Solder Joints and Taper Shank to Mounting
Prepare the inside by blending the solder joint with a small abrasive wheel, removing excess solder. Taper the area above the hinge and clasp to align the CLIQ shank with the mounting. Soften edges for comfort and aesthetics, using a combination of a Koolies grinding wheel, files, and a sandpaper buff stick. Progress from coarse to fine to blend seamlessly and eliminate scratches. After, use a medium coarse rubber wheel to remove deep scratches or tool marks, followed by a BanaSandpaper bar for final touch-ups. The finished ring is now ready for final prep and polishing.
Featured Products
CLIQ® Hinged Adjustable Shank
Engagement Ring Mounting
Orotig Evo X Laser Welder
Ikohe® TRUE-SIZE Ring Mandrel
Fixed Saw Frame
Pike® Gold Saw Blades
Tools Tech Team
Need Support From an Industry Leader?
Whether you are researching to find the right tool, troubleshooting an existing issue, or need full servicing for your equipment, Stuller’s team of experts can guide you in making the best choices for your business. Contact the Tools Tech Team at 800-877-7777, ext. 4300.
Your Partner in Success
Whether you’re just starting to learn how to re-shank a ring or looking to hone your skills, we hope that our step-by-step tutorial will assist you at your workbench.
As always, Stuller is here to provide you with all the necessary tools and supplies for successful repairs, along with educational resources designed for jewelers of any skill level. Whatever your repair needs, we’re here to support you every step of the way.
Be on the lookout for more expert jewelry repair tutorials and tips coming soon, and check out our past How-To series of blogs such as: How To Resize a Ring with a Laser Welder, How To Retip a Prong with a Torch, and How To Change a Watch Battery.