Tools Needed:
STEP 1
Trial fit your stone to the head. Adjust the spacing and location of the prongs carefully with chain nose pliers. When finished, the stone should fit just above its final resting place.
STEP 2
Use a bearing or 90 ̊ bur to cut the seat in each V-prong. Use light pressure to cut the seats.
STEP 3
Most fancy-shaped stones have points on them, so you will need to drill a shallow hole in the center of the seat on the V-prongs with a round bur to provide the proper clearance.
STEP 4
While still using the round bur, cut a small groove down the center of the V-prong to allow room for the corner facets of the stone’s pavilion.
STEP 5
Cut seats 40-50% deep into the side prongs with a 90 ̊ bur.
STEP 6
Use your knife-edge graver knife-edge graver to remove any burs that are left on the sides of the seats.
STEP 7
Test the fit of your stone into the seats and make any corrections.
STEP 8
Once satisfied, prep and pre-polish the sides of the prongs with a soft mounted bristle brush and Picasso Blue Rouge. Then clean the setting in an ultrasonic.
STEP 9
Place the stone in the seats with a pair of chain nose pliers. Pinch the end of the V-prong to tighten it over the stone. Repeat this for both V-prongs, making sure the stone is straight.
STEP 10
Using chain nose pliers, bring the side prongs into the final position. Make sure the stone remains straight and tight.
STEP 12
Next, shape and finish the side prongs with a sanding disc, cupbur and a sharp blue silicone wheel. Follow up with a #39 graver to remove any flashings.
STEP 13
Finally, polish the setting with traditional polishing methods.
Done!
Following these easy steps, you now have a great set stone that will compliment any ring and wow any customer. Congratulations on a job well done!