Cushion-cut stones aren’t difficult to set, but everyone can use a reminder from time to time, and for those new to stone setting, this information may be new. Below, we’ll tell you how we do it here at Stuller.
Let’s get setting.
Measure the Stone
Measure the stone. Sure, you can eyeball it, but why not get a precise measurement instead?
Check Thickness
Check the overall thickness of the stone and its girdle size. Then grab your bur.
TIP: For thin stones with a little girdle, we recommend a 45° bur. Using a 90° bur may cause you to overcut the seat and make it difficult to secure a tight fit for the stone. A 45° bur will cut a thinner seat.
Check Your Fit
Check your fit. Make sure the stone sits level and see if you need to make further adjustments in your cutting.
Remove Any Flashing
Remove any flashing caused by burs. This makes cleaning up later easier.
TIP: Use light polish inside the bearing area at this point for a cleaner, more couture look. Now that the stone is ready to be set…
Apply Pressure to Prongs
Apply pressure to the prongs with your pliers to secure a tight fit with the stone. Prevent twisting during tightening by tweaking your prongs in from side to side.
Prep the Prongs
Prep the prongs and apply a final polish to the piece—now you’re done!
